Edinburgh is a city that takes its drinking seriously. With a pub culture stretching back centuries, the capital offers everything from medieval taverns with low ceilings and roaring fires to stylish cocktail bars in converted Georgian townhouses. The trick is knowing which pubs are worth your time and which are coasting on location alone.
This guide covers the pubs that Edinburgh locals actually drink in — places with atmosphere, good beer, and the kind of character that comes from decades (or centuries) of use.
The Jolly Judge
Hidden down James Court, a close off the Lawnmarket near Edinburgh Castle, The Jolly Judge is one of the Old Town's best-kept secrets. The low-ceilinged, wood-panelled bar occupies a 17th-century space that feels genuinely ancient. There is no television, no music — just conversation, a good selection of Scottish real ales, and a log fire in winter.
The Jolly Judge attracts a mix of locals, university staff, and visitors who have done their research. It is the kind of pub where you settle in for the afternoon. The courtyard entrance makes it easy to walk past, which is part of its appeal.
Address: 7a James Court, Lawnmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2PB
Sandy Bell's
Sandy Bell's on Forrest Road has been the heart of Edinburgh's folk music scene since the 1950s. This small, no-frills pub hosts live traditional music sessions almost every night, and the standard is remarkably high. Musicians come from across Scotland to play here, and on a good evening the atmosphere is electric.
The pub itself is tiny — you might struggle to find a seat on busy nights — but that is part of the experience. Drinks are reasonably priced, and the crowd is friendly and knowledgeable about folk music. Sessions typically start around 21:00 on weeknights and earlier at weekends.
Address: 25 Forrest Road, Edinburgh EH1 2QH
The Bow Bar
Widely regarded as one of the best pubs in Scotland, The Bow Bar on West Bow (at the top of Victoria Street) serves an outstanding range of real ales (typically eight on handpull) and over 300 malt whiskies. The interior is beautifully preserved — a long mahogany bar, vintage brewery mirrors, and a row of tall fonts that any beer lover will appreciate.
The Bow Bar is a proper drinkers' pub. There is no food beyond crisps, no television, and no pretension. The staff know their beer and whisky and are happy to guide you through the selection. It can get busy after work and at weekends, but a midweek afternoon visit is one of Edinburgh's great simple pleasures.
Address: 80 West Bow, Edinburgh EH1 2HH
The Sheep Heid Inn
Claiming to be the oldest surviving pub in Scotland (with a history claimed to stretch back to the 14th century, though the earliest firm records date from the 18th century), The Sheep Heid Inn sits in the village of Duddingston at the foot of Arthur's Seat. The pub has a skittle alley — one of the last surviving in Scotland — a beer garden overlooking the village, and a surprisingly good restaurant.
It is a 20-minute walk from the Royal Mile through Holyrood Park, which makes it an excellent destination after a climb up Arthur's Seat. The walk along Duddingston Loch, past the 12th-century Duddingston Kirk, is worth doing in itself.
Practical tip: The skittle alley can be booked for groups. The pub gets very busy at weekends, so arrive early or book a table for food.
Address: 43-45 The Causeway, Duddingston, Edinburgh EH15 3QA
The Oxford Bar
Famous as the local of Inspector Rebus, Ian Rankin's fictional detective, The Oxford Bar on Young Street is defiantly unchanged. This small New Town pub has no music, no food (beyond pork pies), and no interest in trends. It is a proper Edinburgh howff — the kind of place where regulars have their own seats and the barman knows what you drink.
The front bar is standing room only; the back room has a few tables. Real ales rotate regularly, and the atmosphere is convivial without being rowdy. Rankin himself still drinks here, though the pub does not make a fuss about it.
Address: 8 Young Street, Edinburgh EH2 4JB
Teuchters Landing
Down on the Shore in Leith, Teuchters Landing occupies a converted waiting room for the old Leith ferries, with a floating barge terrace on the Water of Leith. The pub specialises in Scottish produce — an excellent range of Scottish gins, over 100 malt whiskies, and a food menu built around haggis, cullen skink, and Scottish cheeses.
The barge terrace is one of the best outdoor drinking spots in Edinburgh on a sunny day. Inside, the atmosphere is warm and unpretentious. It is a short walk from the restaurants of Leith Shore, making it easy to combine with dinner nearby.
Address: 1c Dock Place, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6LU
The Canny Man's
Formally known as The Volunteer Arms, The Canny Man's in Morningside has been run by the same family since 1871. The interior is extraordinary — every surface is covered with antiques, curiosities, militaria, and memorabilia accumulated over more than 150 years. The pub has a strict set of rules (no mobile phones at the bar, no standing drinks on the piano) that add to its unique character.
The food is excellent, particularly the sharing platters of smoked salmon, cheeses, and charcuterie. The whisky selection is formidable. It is not a cheap pub, but it is a memorable one.
Practical tip: The Canny Man's can be particular about who they let in. Be polite, do not take photographs without asking, and respect the rules.
Address: 237 Morningside Road, Edinburgh EH10 4QU
Bennet's Bar
A short walk from the Royal Mile on Leven Street, near the King's Theatre, Bennet's Bar is a beautifully preserved Victorian pub. The original interior — etched glass, ceramic tiles, brass fixtures, and a magnificent gantry behind the bar — is virtually unchanged since 1906. It is listed by Historic Environment Scotland as one of the finest pub interiors in the country.
Bennet's serves a reliable range of real ales and a straightforward food menu. The atmosphere is relaxed and the clientele mixed — theatre-goers, students, and locals sharing the same handsome room.
Address: 8 Leven Street, Edinburgh EH3 9LG
The Café Royal
The Café Royal on West Register Street is Edinburgh at its most opulent. The main bar features stunning Victorian tilework depicting famous inventors, a vast mahogany island bar, stained glass, and elaborate plasterwork. The adjoining Circle Bar and Oyster Bar are equally impressive.
It is a tourist-friendly spot, but the quality of the beer and the sheer beauty of the interior justify a visit. The Oyster Bar serves good seafood. Come during a quiet weekday afternoon to appreciate the architecture properly.
Address: 19 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
Tips for Pub Crawling in Edinburgh
- Pace yourself: Edinburgh is a compact city, but the hills between pubs can be brutal. The Old Town to Leith is mostly downhill, which is a natural pub crawl route.
- Tipping: Table service tipping is standard in Edinburgh pubs that serve food. For bar service, rounding up or leaving change is appreciated but not expected.
- Last orders: Most pubs serve until midnight on weeknights and 01:00 on Fridays and Saturdays, though some have later licences during the Festival.
- Real ale: Edinburgh has an excellent real ale culture. Look for breweries like Stewart Brewing, Barney's Beer, and Pilot — all brewed locally.
