Edinburgh's Old Town is built on secrets. Beneath the castle-crowned ridge that forms the Royal Mile, a maze of narrow closes, hidden staircases, and tucked-away courtyards waits for anyone willing to look beyond the obvious. These passageways once served as the city's arteries, connecting the high street to the lands below, and many survive today as quiet refuges from the crowds above.
This guide takes you through some of the best secret closes and courtyards in Edinburgh's Old Town, from well-kept gardens to atmospheric medieval passages that most visitors never find.
What Exactly Is a Close?
Before diving in, a quick note on terminology. In Edinburgh, a "close" (also called a "wynd" or "pend") is a narrow alleyway or passageway, typically running off the Royal Mile down the steep slopes on either side. Historically, these led to tenement buildings, workshops, and the cramped living quarters of a city that grew upwards rather than outwards. There are over 70 closes along the Royal Mile alone, each with its own character and history.
Many are freely accessible during daylight hours, though a few are gated at night. Wear sensible shoes — the cobbles can be slippery, especially after rain.
Advocate's Close
Start at Advocate's Close, which drops steeply from the Royal Mile near St Giles' Cathedral down towards Cockburn Street. This is one of the most photogenic closes in Edinburgh, with its worn stone steps, overhanging buildings, and views that open up unexpectedly as you descend. The close dates back to at least the 16th century and was named after Sir James Stewart, Lord Advocate of Scotland.
At the bottom, you emerge onto Cockburn Street with its colourful shopfronts and independent record shops. The contrast between the dim, medieval passage and the bustling Victorian street below is part of the charm. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for the best light and fewer people.
Dunbar's Close Garden
Tucked behind an unassuming entrance on the Canongate section of the Royal Mile, Dunbar's Close Garden is one of Edinburgh's loveliest hidden spaces. This formal 17th-century-style garden was restored in the 1970s and is maintained by the Mushroom Trust. It sits directly behind the Canongate Kirk, and on a quiet afternoon you could easily believe you have stepped back three hundred years.
The garden is laid out with clipped box hedging, gravel paths, and period-appropriate planting. There are benches tucked into alcoves, and the high stone walls block out most of the city noise. It is free to enter and open during daylight hours year-round. Genuinely one of the most peaceful spots in central Edinburgh.
Practical tip: The entrance is easy to miss. Look for the arched pend next to 137 Canongate, between the Canongate Kirk and Panmure House.
Riddle's Court
Riddle's Court, just off the Lawnmarket at the top of the Royal Mile, is a beautifully restored 16th-century courtyard that served as a merchant's house and later a teaching college. The building has a remarkable history — it hosted a banquet for King James VI in the 1590s, and the painted ceilings in the upper chambers are some of the finest surviving examples from that period.
Today, Riddle's Court is managed by the Scottish Historic Buildings Trust and operates as a cultural and educational venue. You can often visit the courtyard freely during the day, and guided tours of the interior run periodically, particularly during the Edinburgh Festival in August. Check their website for current opening times and tour availability.
Admission: The courtyard is free. Interior tours vary in price, typically around five to eight pounds.
Tweeddale Court
A few minutes' walk down the Royal Mile from Riddle's Court, Tweeddale Court hides behind an easy-to-miss entrance at 14 High Street. Step through the narrow pend and you find yourself in a surprisingly spacious courtyard that once housed the headquarters of the British Linen Bank and, later, the publishing offices of Oliver & Boyd.
The courtyard has a slightly melancholy grandeur, with its Georgian facades and the quiet sense of a place that has seen better days. It is worth visiting for the atmosphere alone. The Scottish Poetry Library, a calm and welcoming space with free admission, sits just around the corner on Crichton's Close and pairs well with a visit here.
Lady Stair's Close and The Writers' Museum
Lady Stair's Close leads from the Lawnmarket into a small courtyard dominated by Lady Stair's House, a handsome 1622 townhouse that now contains The Writers' Museum. The museum is dedicated to Scotland's three great literary figures — Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson — and houses manuscripts, portraits, and personal effects.
The museum is free to enter, which makes it an easy stop. The courtyard itself, known as Makars' Court, features inscriptions from Scottish writers set into the flagstones. Look down as you walk through.
Opening hours: Daily, 10:00 to 17:00. Closed on certain public holidays.
Whitehorse Close
At the very bottom of the Royal Mile, just before the Palace of Holyroodhouse, Whitehorse Close is a cluster of restored 17th-century buildings arranged around a cobbled courtyard. The close was once the site of a coaching inn — the last stop before the long road to London — and the white horse on the inn sign gave the close its name.
The buildings were restored in the 1960s and are now private residences, but you can walk into the courtyard and admire the crow-stepped gables, the external staircases, and the sense of a pocket of old Edinburgh preserved intact. It is one of the most atmospheric spots on the entire Royal Mile and rarely crowded.
Bakehouse Close
Immediately recognisable to fans of the television series Outlander, Bakehouse Close on the Canongate doubled as the entrance to a printshop in the show's third series. But the close has genuine historical interest beyond its screen appearances. The Incorporation of Bakers of the Canongate operated here, and the restored buildings date from the 17th century.
The close itself is short but handsome, with good stonework and a quiet courtyard at the end. It connects to the Museum of Edinburgh (Huntly House), which is free and worth a look for its collections of local history, trade signs, and the original National Covenant signed in 1638.
Anchor Close
Anchor Close, accessed from the High Street near the Tron Kirk, has a distinguished literary past. According to local tradition, the first edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica was printed here in 1768, and the Crochallan Fencibles — a drinking club frequented by Robert Burns — met in a tavern within the close. Today, the close is quieter, but a plaque marks its encyclopaedic connection.
Tips for Exploring Edinburgh's Closes
- Timing: Early morning (before 9:00) or late afternoon gives you the best chance of having a close to yourself. During the August festivals, even the quieter ones fill up.
- Footwear: Cobblestones and worn stone steps are the norm. Heels are not advisable.
- Safety: The closes are generally safe, but some are poorly lit after dark. Stick to the better-known ones if exploring at night.
- Maps: The City of Edinburgh Council publishes a free closes trail map, available at the tourist information centre on the Royal Mile or downloadable from their website.
- Guided walks: Several companies offer dedicated close tours, including Mercat Tours, which has been running walking tours of the Old Town for decades. Their evening tours add a theatrical element.
Making a Day of It
A leisurely walk taking in all the closes mentioned here would cover roughly a mile and a half and take two to three hours, depending on how long you linger. Start at Riddle's Court at the top of the Royal Mile, work your way down via Advocate's Close and Lady Stair's Close, continue along the High Street through Anchor Close and Tweeddale Court, and finish at the Canongate end with Dunbar's Close Garden, Bakehouse Close, and Whitehorse Close.
Break up the walk with a stop at The Piemaker on South Bridge for a steak and gravy pie, or duck into The Devil's Advocate on Advocate's Close itself for a cocktail in a converted Victorian pump house.
Edinburgh has a way of rewarding the curious. Turn off the main drag, step through a dark pend, and you will find a city that the tour buses never reach.
